1987 Chevy 4×4 For Sale Craigslist: Your Ultimate Guide to Finding a Square Body Legend cars.truckstrend.com
The year 1987 holds a special place in the hearts of classic truck enthusiasts. It marks the final production year of the iconic "Square Body" Chevrolet C/K series, a design that has transcended mere utility to become a cultural icon. Among these, the 1987 Chevy 4×4 stands out as a highly sought-after vehicle, blending rugged capability with timeless aesthetics. Its robust construction, simple mechanics, and distinctive styling make it a prime candidate for restoration projects, daily drivers, or off-road adventures.
Finding one of these automotive gems, however, often involves navigating the sometimes murky waters of online classifieds. Craigslist, in particular, remains a popular, albeit challenging, platform for discovering these vintage trucks. It’s where private sellers connect directly with buyers, often leading to more affordable prices but also requiring a discerning eye and a strategic approach. This comprehensive guide will equip you with the knowledge and tools necessary to successfully locate, evaluate, and purchase a 1987 Chevy 4×4 on Craigslist, turning a potentially daunting search into a rewarding treasure hunt.
1987 Chevy 4×4 For Sale Craigslist: Your Ultimate Guide to Finding a Square Body Legend
The Enduring Appeal of the 1987 Chevy 4×4
Why does the 1987 Chevy 4×4 continue to captivate so many? The answer lies in its unique position in automotive history. As the last iteration of the third-generation C/K series (1973-1987), it benefited from years of refinement while retaining the beloved "Square Body" aesthetics.
Key Features & Why They Matter:
- Iconic Styling: The boxy, no-nonsense lines are instantly recognizable and evoke a sense of Americana and durability. This design is highly customizable, lending itself well to various looks from lifted off-road beasts to lowered street cruisers.
- Robust Drivetrain: Equipped with tried-and-true small-block Chevy V8 engines (typically 305 or 350 cubic inches, with 454 big-blocks also available), these trucks are known for their reliability and power. 1987 models introduced Throttle Body Injection (TBI) as an option, offering slightly better fuel efficiency and cold starts compared to earlier carbureted models, though carburetors were still common.
- Solid Axles & 4×4 Capability: The rugged solid axle front suspension and part-time four-wheel-drive system (often with an NP208 or NP241 transfer case) make these trucks incredibly capable off-road and durable for heavy-duty work.
- Simplicity & Parts Availability: With fewer complex electronics than modern vehicles, 1987 Chevy trucks are relatively easy to work on. The vast aftermarket support and interchangeability of parts across many model years mean that components are readily available and often affordable.
This combination of classic looks, mechanical simplicity, and undeniable capability makes the 1987 Chevy 4×4 more than just a vehicle; it’s a piece of automotive history that continues to be a practical and enjoyable investment.
Why Craigslist? Understanding the Platform
Craigslist’s appeal for vintage vehicle hunting is undeniable, but it comes with its own set of advantages and disadvantages.
Benefits:
- Local Focus: Craigslist is primarily location-based, meaning you’re more likely to find trucks within driving distance for inspection.
- Direct Seller Contact: You communicate directly with the owner, allowing for negotiation and a deeper understanding of the vehicle’s history.
- No Dealer Markup: Private sales often bypass dealership fees and markups, potentially leading to lower prices.
- Hidden Gems: Many owners aren’t savvy with specialized classic car sites, so unique or well-preserved examples can pop up unexpectedly.
Challenges:
- Scams: Be wary of suspicious listings, overly low prices for perfect vehicles, or requests for wire transfers. Always see the vehicle in person.
- Lack of Quality Control: Ad descriptions can be vague, photos poor, and sellers may not fully disclose issues.
- "As-Is" Sales: Most Craigslist transactions are "as-is," meaning no warranties. Thorough inspection is paramount.
- Varying Seller Knowledge: Some sellers are highly knowledgeable enthusiasts, others are just offloading a vehicle with little information.
Crafting Your Craigslist Search Strategy
Effective searching is key to finding a diamond in the rough.
- Keywords are Crucial: Don’t just search "1987 Chevy 4×4." Expand your terms to include:
- "Chevy K10," "K20," "K30" (referring to 1/2-ton, 3/4-ton, 1-ton 4x4s, respectively)
- "Square Body"
- "Chevy Truck 4×4"
- "Classic Chevy Truck"
- "Vintage Chevy"
- "C/K Series 4×4"
- Location, Location, Location: Start with your immediate area, then gradually expand your search radius. Consider checking Craigslist sites for neighboring states or major metropolitan areas, especially those known for drier climates where rust is less prevalent.
- Filtering: Utilize any available filters for price range, year, and make.
- Frequency: New listings appear daily, even hourly. Check frequently – morning, noon, and night – to be among the first to see fresh inventory. The best deals often go fast.
- Save Your Searches: Many Craigslist apps or third-party tools allow you to save searches and receive notifications for new listings.
What to Look For: Essential Inspection Points (Before You Go)
Before you even step foot near a truck, the initial interaction with the ad and seller is critical.
- Reading the Ad Critically:
- Photos: Are there multiple, clear photos from various angles (interior, exterior, engine bay, undercarriage)? Lack of photos, blurry images, or stock photos are red flags.
- Description: Is it detailed or vague? A description with "needs nothing" but looks rough in photos is suspicious. Look for honesty about flaws.
- Price: Does it seem too good to be true? It probably is.
- Asking the Right Questions (via phone/email):
- Engine & Transmission: What engine is in it (305, 350, 454)? Is it carbureted or TBI? What transmission (manual or automatic)?
- Mileage: While often inaccurate for older vehicles, ask for the odometer reading.
- Rust: Specifically ask about common rust areas: cab corners, rocker panels, wheel wells, bed floor, and frame.
- 4×4 Functionality: Does the 4×4 engage smoothly in both high and low range? Any grinding or clunking?
- Maintenance History: Any records? When was the last oil change, tune-up, or major service?
- Modifications: Has anything been modified (lift kit, engine swaps, custom interior)?
- Reason for Selling: This can sometimes reveal underlying issues or simply a lack of space.
The On-Site Inspection: A Detailed Checklist
This is where you earn your money. Bring a flashlight, a magnet (for checking body filler), and a knowledgeable friend if possible.
- Exterior:
- Rust: The #1 enemy. Check cab corners, rocker panels, wheel arches, bed floor (especially near the wheel wells), and tailgate. Critically inspect the frame rails for rot, especially near suspension mounting points. Use a magnet to detect areas filled with body filler.
- Body Panels: Look for consistent panel gaps. Misaligned panels can indicate past accidents or poor repairs.
- Paint: Is it original, a cheap respray, or a quality job? Look for overspray, bubbling, or peeling.
- Tires: Check tread depth, uneven wear (sign of alignment issues), and date codes (old tires crack).
- Interior:
- Seats: Rips, tears, worn-out foam.
- Dashboard: Cracks are common, but severe damage can be costly.
- Gauges & Lights: Do all gauges work? Are warning lights on? Test all exterior lights.
- HVAC: Does the heater and A/C (if equipped) work?
- Headliner & Carpet: Check for water stains, mold, or severe wear.
- Under the Hood:
- Fluid Leaks: Look for oil, coolant, power steering, or transmission fluid leaks.
- Battery: Check for corrosion.
- Belts & Hoses: Look for cracks, fraying, or bulges.
- Wiring: Any shoddy, exposed, or cut wires?
- Engine Cleanliness: An overly clean engine might hide leaks. A dusty but dry engine is often a good sign.
- Underneath:
- Frame: Re-emphasize inspecting the frame for bends, cracks, or severe rust that compromises structural integrity.
- Suspension: Check shocks, leaf springs (broken leaves?), bushings (cracked, worn).
- Steering: Look for worn tie rods, ball joints, or excessive play in the steering box.
- Exhaust: Any major rust holes or leaks?
- Drivetrain: Look for leaks from differentials, transfer case, or transmission.
- Test Drive:
- Cold Start: How does it start when cold? Any excessive smoke or strange noises?
- Brakes: Do they pull to one side? Is the pedal firm?
- Steering: Is there excessive play? Does it wander?
- Transmission: Does it shift smoothly (automatic)? Does the clutch engage smoothly (manual)? Any slipping or harsh shifts?
- 4×4 Engagement: Engage 4×4 high and low range in a safe, open area (like dirt or gravel) if possible. Listen for grinding, binding, or clunking.
- Unusual Noises: Listen for engine knocks, squeaks, rattles, or grinding from the drivetrain.
- Gauges: Do they all function correctly during the drive?
Negotiation and Closing the Deal
- Research Pricing: Use resources like Hagerty Valuation Tool, classic car auction results, and other Craigslist/online listings to get a sense of fair market value for different conditions.
- Be Prepared to Walk Away: This is your strongest negotiating tool. If something feels off, or the seller is unwilling to budge on an unreasonable price, move on.
- Point Out Flaws: Use any issues you discovered during inspection as leverage for a lower price. Be polite but firm.
- Cash is King: Having cash in hand often gives you an advantage in private sales.
- Title Transfer: Ensure the seller has a clear, transferable title in their name. Get a bill of sale, even if not legally required in your state, detailing the vehicle, price, and "as-is" condition. Verify the VIN on the title matches the vehicle.
Common Challenges and Solutions
- Rust: The most common problem. Solution: Surface rust is manageable; frame rust is critical. Factor in professional repair costs or be prepared to tackle it yourself.
- Mechanical Wear & Tear: Expect some, given the age. Solution: Budget for immediate repairs and ongoing maintenance. A pre-purchase inspection by a trusted mechanic is highly recommended if you’re not mechanically inclined.
- Vague Listings: Solution: Be persistent with questions and request more photos. If a seller is unwilling to provide details, move on.
- Scams: Solution: Never send money sight unseen. Meet in a public place. Bring a friend. Trust your gut.
- "Project" Vehicles: Many 1987 Chevy 4x4s on Craigslist will be projects. Solution: Honestly assess your mechanical skills, available time, and budget before taking on a major restoration. A running, driving project is usually better than a non-runner.
1987 Chevy 4×4 Price Guide (Estimated Craigslist Prices)
Please note these are general estimates and actual prices can vary wildly based on region, engine, transmission, options, rust, modifications, and seller motivation.
| Condition Category | Description | Estimated Price Range (USD) | Key Factors Influencing Price
